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Contents: Exterior
Structure
Electrical
Heating
Cooling
Attics Plumbing
Interior Household
Pests Priority
Maintenance
INTRODUCTION
In a home, very few things are maintenance free. While it is
a bitter pill for most homeowners to swallow, the fact is that
preventive maintenance, with all the time and money it consumes, is
still far more cost effective than the crisis management approach of
waiting until something breaks and then scrambling to have it
repaired. Preventive maintenance inspection can avoid repairs,
extend the life expectancy of many components and in some cases,
reduce energy consumption.
Advance Warning
A systematic maintenance inspection approach also
allows one to monitor certain conditions and components. Regular
roof inspections, for example, will give one enough advance warning
to allow for several roofing quotes in order to make an educated and
cost effective purchase of a new roof covering. If on the other
hand, no maintenance is done, and the roof suddenly leaks, there is
very little time to do comparative shopping. Under these
circumstances, one is forced to go with the roofer who can do the
job the fastest - not necessarily with the roofing materials of your
choice or at the best possible price.
In addition to monitoring systems which wear out,
structural monitoring can also be performed. It is not common for
people who have been living in a house for some time to suddenly
realize that a door frame is out of square and the door does not
close properly. With regular maintenance, the cracks which occur in
the wall surfaces adjacent to the door frame can be monitored.
Knowing whether these cracks have appeared suddenly or have been
increasing at a specific rate, is valuable information when
diagnosing the problem and designing a repair.
X - Structure
Monitoring
Regular maintenance is not everybody's cup of tea.
Hiring a certified inspector to perform maintenance
inspections and real estate repairs is not unwise.
Ideally, preventive maintenance inspections should
be performed semi-annually in the spring and fall. However, some
components require more or less frequent inspections. Where
appropriate, this is noted. Records of any work performed should be
noted in the Filing System section. Periodic WDO termite inspections
and mold inspection are recommended as part of a general
maintenance requirement.
One last thought. There probably is not a homeowner
alive who performs maintenance inspections to the degree that we
suggest. So take all of this with a grain of salt. Suffice it to
say, the more you do, the better. Please make a chart to assist in
creating your own schedule.
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X - EXTERIOR
Chimneys: Chimneys and fireplaces should be inspected
for loose or deteriorated bricks or mortar. If covered with stucco
or parging, look for cracks or loose sections. Chimney caps should
be inspected for loose or broken sections as should the protruding
clay chimney flue liners. Chimney flashings should be inspected for
leakage. Effloresence (a white salt build-up on the chimney)
indicates moisture within the chimney and further investigation is
required. Metal chimneys should be checked for rust, missing rain
caps and loose braces.
Roofs
Shingle Roofs: Roofing should be inspected for damaged, loose or missing
shingles. Special attention should be paid to high wear areas such
as areas where there is significant foot traffic or areas where
downspouts from upper roofs discharge onto lower roofs. Flashings at
dormers, plumbing stacks, valleys, et cetera, should be carefully
inspected.Supports for television antennas or satellite dishes
should be checked. Electric cables (eave protection) should be well
secured and properly powered. Tree branches should be kept cut back
to avoid damaging the roof surface.
Flat Roofs: Flat roofs should
be inspected for blisters, bubbles, and flashing details. Tar and
gravel roofs should be inspected for areas of gravel erosion. Tree
branches should not contact the roof surface.
Gutters and Downspouts:
Gutters and downspouts should be checked for blockage,
leakage (from rust holes or leaking joints) and areas requiring
re-securing or re-sloping. Paint deterioration should also be noted.
Downspout seams should be checked for splitting (the seam is usually
against the wall) . A split downspout is often plugged with
debris. Water accumulates in the downspout, freezes and splits it
open.
Eaves: Soffits and fascia
should be inspected for loose and rotted areas as well as areas
damaged by vermin. Paint condition should be noted.
Walls: Masonry walls should
be checked for deteriorated brick and mortar. Stucco walls should be
inspected for cracking and separating. Wood walls should be checked
for rot, loose or damaged boards, caulking, and wood/soil contact.
If paint deterioration is the result of blistering or bubbling, the
cause should be determined. It may be due to outward moisture
migration from the interior of the house, indicating more serious
problems.
Metal and vinyl sidings, insulbrick and shingle
sidings should be inspected for mechanical damage and loose or
missing components. All walls should be checked for indications of
settling. Vines should be monitored to determine whether damage to
the wall surface is occurring. Deciduous vines are best checked
during winter months, when there are no leaves. Vines should be kept
cut back from wood trim (windows, doors, eaves, etc) and from
gutters.
Exposed Foundation Walls:
Foundation walls should be inspected for deteriorated
brick, block, mortar or parging. Cracking due to settlement should
also be noted and monitored.
Grading: The grading
immediately adjacent to the house should be checked to insure a
slope of one inch per foot for the first six feet away from the
house (where practical). Catch basins should be cleaned and
tested.
Doors and Windows: Caulking
and weather-stripping should be checked. Broken or cracked panes of
glass should be replaced. Storms should be installed in the fall and
screens in the spring. The finishes should be checked for paint
deterioration and rot (particularly sills). Window wells should be
cleaned.
Porches and decks: Wooden
components should be checked for rot and insect infestation. Wood
should be painted or stained as required. Steps and railings should
be secured.
Garages: Garage roofs should
be checked for wear. The structure should be inspected for evidence
of movement. Wooden components should be investigated for evidence
of rot or insect infestation. Wooden components should be painted or
stained as required.
Automatic garage door openers should be
tested monthly and adjusted to reverse in the event of an emergency.
Floor drains should be cleared and
tested.
Driveways and
Sidewalks: Driveways and sidewalks should be checked
for cracks and deterioration. Settling which will result in surface
water run off towards the house should be corrected as should uneven
sections which pose a safety hazard to
pedestrians.
Retaining Walls and
Fences: Wooden retaining walls and fences should be
checked for rot and insect infestation. Retaining walls should
be checked for evidence of movement.
Trees, Shrubs and
Vines: Limbs overhanging the house should be cut
back. Dead limbs should be removed. Vines should be trimmed back
from all wood surfaces.
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X - STRUCTURE
Foundation Walls: Foundation
walls should be checked for evidence of deterioration, dampness and
movement. Limited dampness from slow moisture migration can be
anticipated with most older foundation walls. This will often result
in minor surface deterioration. Semi-annual inspections allow for
monitoring of this situation. Cracks and voids should be filled.
Filling cracks allow for easy monitoring or movement between
inspections.
Access hatches should be provided to all crawl space
areas.
Wood Framing: Exposed wooden
structural components in the basement should be checked for evidence
of rot and insect infestation. Deterioration usually results in
sagging structural components.
Wall and Ceiling Surface Cracks:
Wall and ceiling surface cracks should be monitored for
evidence of significant movement. Minor movement due to normal
settling and shrinkage should be anticipated.
Door Frames: Door frames
should be checked to determine heir square-ness. Door frames
showing significant movement over a six month period are normally
indications of more serious problems.
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X - ELECTRICAL
Main Panel: The
main electrical panel should be checked annually for rust or water
marks indicating moisture penetration. All breakers should be turned
off and on to ensure none has seized. All fuses should be tightened.
A panel which is warm to the touch or smells of burned insulation
should be brought to the attention of an electrician. Burned wires
indicating loose or poor connections should be repaired by qualified
personnel. All circuits should be labeled. Ground fault circuit
interrupters should be tested monthly. Aluminum wire connections
inside the distribution panel should be tightened annually. This
should be done by a qualified electrician. The area around the panel
for roughly three feet in all directions should be kept clear of
storage.
Indoor Wiring:
Poor or loose connections noted when viewing the exposed
wiring in the basement should be corrected by a qualified
electrician. Frayed or damaged wire, including extension cords,
appliance cords and plugs, should be replaced. Loose outlets and
switches should be tightened. Ground fault circuit interrupter
electrical outlets should be tested monthly. Aluminum wire
connections throughout the house should be tightened annually by a
qualified electrician.
Outdoor Wiring:
The mast head and the wires leading to the street (if
overhead) should be inspected to make sure that they are not loose
or frayed. Overhead wiring leading to out buildings such as garages
should also be inspected. Exterior outlets should have proper
covers. Ideally, ordinary exterior outlets should be replaced with
ground fault circuit interrupter type outlets.
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X - HEATING
All Forced Air Systems:
Conventional filters on forced-air systems should be
checked monthly and cleaned or replaced as needed. Electronic
filters should be checked monthly and cleaned as needed. The
manufacturers instructions should be followed carefully. Care should
be taken to ensure the interior components are installed in the
correct orientation after cleaning.
Noisy blower sections should be brought
to the attention of a technician.
Water levels in humidifiers should be
checked and adjusted monthly. Interior components should be replaced
on an as needed basis. The pad on drum type humidifiers should be
replaced annually. The water supply to humidifiers should be
shut off for the summer months and activated for the heating months.
On systems with air conditioning or a heat pump, the damper in the
humidifier ductwork should be closed during the cooling
season.
All Hot Water Systems:
Radiators and convectors should be inspected annually for
leakage (particularly at the valves). Radiators should be bled of
air annually, and as necessary during the heating season.
Circulating pumps should be lubricated
twice during the heating season. Expansion tanks should be drained
annually.
Electric Heat:
Electric furnaces and boilers should be inspected by a
qualified technician every year to ensure that all the components
are operating properly and no connections are loose or burned. The
fuses or circuit breakers in some electrical systems can be checked
by the homeowner.
Electric baseboard heaters should be
inspected to ensure an adequate clearance from combustibles.
Baseboard heaters which have been mechanically damaged should be
repaired or replaced.
Oil Furnaces and Boilers:
Oil systems should be checked by a qualified technician on
an annual basis. Oily soot deposits at registers of forced-air
systems may indicate a cracked heat exchanger. A technician should
be contacted.
The exhaust pipe from the furnace or
boiler should be checked for loose connections or corroded sections.
The barometric damper on the exhaust pipe should rotate freely.The
chimney clean-out should be cleared of any debris. The oil tank
should be inspected for leaks. Soot on the front of the furnace or
boiler may indicate a draft or combustion problem. A technician
should be contacted.
Gas Furnaces and Boilers:
If gas odors can be detected, call the gas company
immediately. Do not turn on any electrical equipment or use anything
with an open flame.
Gas furnaces and boilers should be
cleaned and serviced annually. The exhaust pipe should be checked
for loose or corroded sections. The chimney clean-out should be
cleared of any debris. The heat shield (located where the burner
enters the heat exchanger) should be checked to ensure that it is
not loose or corroded. Burn marks around the heat shield may
indicate a draft or combustion problem. A technician should be
contacted.
Wood Stoves: Wood
stove chimneys and flues should be checked for creosote build-up and
cleaned at least annually (more frequently depending upon use).
Clearance to combustibles around wood stoves should be maintained at
all times. If there is any doubt about the safety of a wood stove,
contact the city building inspector immediately.
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X - COOLING/HEAT PUMPS
HEAT PUMPS: A qualified
technician should be engaged to inspect the system and recharge it
if necessary annually. Most systems require the power to be on for
up to twenty four hours before using the system. A condensate drain
line emerging from the ductwork above the furnace should be visually
checked for leakage during the cooling season.
The outdoor section should be level. If
the outdoor component settles or heaves, adjustments should be made
by a specialist. The refrigerant lines should be checked for
damaged, missing or loose insulation. Debris and vegetation should
be kept away from the outdoor component of the system. Most
manufacturers prefer to have the outdoor component left uncovered
during the winter to prevent rust. The outdoor coil should be
kept clean. A noisy fan may mean a bearing problem or misalignment.
Window air conditioners should be removed for the winter.
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X - ATTICS
Attics should be inspected annually for water stains on the
underside of the roof sheathing.One should also look for rot,
mildew, and fungus indicating high humidity levels in the attic.
Check to make sure the insulation is not wet. Some types of loose
insulation are prone to being blown around during periods of high
wind. Check for bare spots and ensure that insulation is not
covering pot-lights. Attic vents should be checked to ensure that
they are not obstructed. Often, birds build nests in these vents.
Vents at the eaves are often plugged with insulation. Watch for
evidence of pests (squirrels, raccoons,
etc).
Rafters (supporting the roof) and collar
ties (horizontal members running across the attic between opposing
rafters) should be inspected for rot and movement.
NOTE: Be careful walking around. Don't
fall through or step on wires. Compressed insulation looses much of
its insulating value.
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X - PLUMBING
Supply Plumbing:
Supply plumbing should be checked annually for leaks.
Precautions should be taken to ensure that plumbing in areas such as
crawl spaces will not freeze during winter months. Outdoor
faucets should be shut off from the interior and drained for the
winter. Operate the main shut-off valve and critical isolating
valves to ensure proper operation in the event of an emergency.
Leaking or dripping faucets should be repaired.
Well equipment should be inspected
semi-annually. A water quality test should be performed periodically
on the advice of local authorities.
Waste Plumbing:
Visible waste plumbing should be checked for leaks.
Basement floor drains and exterior drains should be checked and
cleaned as necessary. Slow drains within the house should be
cleaned. Basement floor drain traps should e filled with water to
ensure that they are not broken. If cracked, or if the water has
evaporated, sewer odors will enter the house.
Septic tanks should be checked and
cleaned if necessary every year.
Fixtures: Toilets
should be checked to ensure that they are properly secured to the
floor. Listen for toilets which run continuously. Grouting and
caulking at all bathroom fixture should be checked and renewed as
necessary. Sump pumps should be tested.
Water heaters:
Modern water heaters have a test lever on the pressure
relief valve. This lever should be tested every three months or so
to ensure that the pressure relief valve is not seized. If the
relief valve does not discharge near a drain, a bucket will be
required.
In some areas, sludge may accumulate in
the bottom of the tank. Draining some water from the bottom of the
tank will indicate the presence of sludge and the necessity for
regular draining. Be sure to shut off the power or fuel supply prior
to draining any water from the tank.
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X - INTERIOR
Walls and ceilings should be inspected
for cracks in interior finishes. The amount of movement should be
noted so that it can be monitored in the future. Bulges in wall and
ceiling surfaces should be carefully monitored. Separated plaster,
particularly on ceilings, can fall and cause injury.
Walls, particularly in corners and areas
of dead air (behind drapes for example), should be checked for
evidence of condensation and mildew indicating high humidity levels
within the house. water stains on interior finishes should be noted.
If the source cannot be detected, they should be
monitored.
Door frames should be inspected. Door
frames which become out of square during a relatively short period
(six months) may indicate structural problems.
Condensation on windows indicates high
humidity levels during winter months. This can sometimes lead to
rot.
Fireplaces and chimneys should be cleaned
and inspected at least annually, depending upon usage.
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X - HOUSEHOLD PESTS
Carpenter Ants:
Carpenter ants are the largest variety of common ants found
in North America. Carpenter ants do not eat wood; however they do
nest in it. They earned their name by building galleries in wood and
by carefully finishing the surfaces of these galleries. When chewing
their way through wood they leave small particles resembling saw
dust which they push out of the colony. It is the presence which
indicates a colony.Carpenter ants tend to be most active in the
spring and early summer. They are usually dormant during a portion
of the winter. Outdoors, they feed on other insects and plant
material while indoors they feed on household food.
To prevent a carpenter infestation,
decayed wood should be removed from around the building. Firewood
should not be stored indoors for long periods of time. Wood used
where dampness may occur should be treated with a preservative. Food
stuffs, such as sugar, should be store in closed containers and,
should a spill occur, it should be cleaned up quickly.
Chemical control of carpenter ants should
be undertaken by a qualified pest control company. Carpenter ants
often nest inside walls, ceilings, outdoor siding, eaves, floors,
window casings, etc. They prefer wet wood, and can be often found in
rotting wood.
Earwigs: Earwigs
are one of the most common pests in homes and gardens. They eat both
plant and animal food. They often damage flowers, fruit and
vegetables.
Chemical treatment for the control of
earwigs should be applied in June or early July.The treatment should
be applied along building foundations, under porches and around
fences, wood piles, garages and tree trunks. Chemical treatment is
effective in the short term, however, it is not uncommon for a
garden to be reinfested in as little as two weeks after treatment.
Earwigs are nocturnal, searching for food at night and hiding during
the day.
Silverfish:
Silverfish are nocturnal and prefer damp dark areas of the
house. They appreciate warm temperatures and can often be found in
furnace rooms. They feed on starchy materials such as wallpaper
paste or sizing and glue. They will also eat bread crumbs and other
human food. Sometimes, they feed on paper or other wood
by-products.
While chemical treatment can be
effective, non-chemical treatment also works. Proper vacuuming in
areas where they are likely to hide is essential. Old books, papers,
et cetera, should not be left in unventilated areas for long periods
of time.
Small jars, partially filled with water
can be used to trap silverfish. Once inside the jar they cannot
crawl up the sides. The outside of the jar should be covered with
masking tape to allow them to climb up easily.
Cockroaches: There
are many species of cockroaches found in North America. Cockroaches
eat many different things, including food, paper, plants, glue, etc.
They prefer a damp dark environment. Roaches can be a health
hazard as they have been known to carry salmonella bacteria .
Getting rid of cockroaches is very difficult. Good housekeeping is a
must. Spills should be cleaned up promptly and food should be kept
in insect proof containers. If possible, repair any damp areas in
the home.
Chemical treatment is best performed by a
professional.
Sowbugs: Sowbugs
are actually not insects. They are crustaceans (the same family as
shrimp, lobsters, et cetera). Sowbugs seldom do serious damage to
houses; however, they do feed on decaying organic matter and
chronically wet, rotted wood is sometimes their food. They are
usually found in dark, damp environments such as corners of
basements.
The dryer and better ventilated the
basement is, the less likelihood of sowbugs.
Termites:
Subterranean termites usually do not live in houses but
rather in the soil below. Termites live on wood. While they prefer
damp or decaying wood, they will also eat sound dry
lumber. The damage to the wood is seldom
noticeable as they eat through the interior. If there is no direct
wood/soil contact, termites must build shelter tubes or tunnels to
get from the soil to the wood. It is the presence of these tubes
which indicate an infestation. The tubes are typically 1/4 to 1/2
inch in width and are made of soil glued together by the
termites.
The amount of damage which can be caused
by termites can be extensive. If shelter tubes are noticed, a pest
control company should be contacted immediately. In some areas,
government assistance is available for treatment. In
addition to chemical treatment, it is also necessary to break
all wood/soil contact.
Fleas: Fleas are
typically brought into the house by animals. They live on blood of
their hosts. There are many types of fleas; cat fleas, dog fleas,
squirrel fleas, etc. Cat fleas give people the most problems. Fleas
nest on the animal; however, they leave the animal from time to time
and jump onto other species. They never stay, however. They always
return to the host animal. If the host animal leaves the premises
permanently, the fleas which are left behind will jump onto people,
looking for food.
Adult fleas are relatively easy to kill;
however, the larva live in strong protective cocoons. Both the eggs
and the cocoons are very resistant to flea control attempts. While
there are products on the market for the homeowner, best results are
obtained by hiring an expert.
Mice: The typical
life expectancy of a house mouse is approximately one year. During
that time, a female mouse can bear up to eight litters of four or
five mice. While mice will eat virtually any type of food, they
prefer grain and seed. They require very little water. Mice travel
in a very limited territory, usually not much more than thirty feet
from their nest. Mice must gnaw on things to keep their teeth worn
down. They are able to chew through wood, asphalt, soft mortar and
even aluminum. Mice can get through holes as small as one-half
inch in diameter. They are nocturnal creatures.
The best control for mice is proper
sanitation. This includes the storage of food materials in
mouse-proof containers and proper cleaning of spills. Mice can
easily be caught in spring traps using bait such as peanut butter,
cheese, bacon, or bread. Dead mice should be removed
promptly.
Poisons can also be used; however, they
must be handled very carefully. Usually the poison has to be
consumed over a period of several days to become effective. If
poisons are to be used, they should be placed in areas where they
won't be found by children or pets. When stored, they should
be marked as poison.
Raccoons: Raccoons
are highly intelligent animals. They will feed on fruits, nuts,
grain, fish, meat, etc. They are nocturnal animals and are often
found in urban settings.
The best control of raccoons is to
preclude their entry. Chimney flues should be covered with
substantial screens. Garage doors should be kept shut. Garbage
should be kept in closed containers and shields can be provided on
T. V. towers and trees to prevent access to the roofs of buildings.
Tree limbs should be cut back.
Box traps or wire cages can be used to
trap the animals so that they can be removed to a remote area.
The trap should be set to catch the raccoon as it approaches its
feeding place. It should be secured to prevent it from being
tipped over and the bait taken. Bait such as corn, melon, prunes and
peanut butter are effective. This is best done by a
professional. It is not wise to corner a raccoon.
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X - PRIORITY MAINTENANCE
FOR HOMEOWNERS
There are so many home maintenance and
repair items that are important, it can be confusing trying to
establish which are the most critical. To simplify things, we have
compiled a short list of our favorites. These are by no means
all-inclusive, nor do they replace any of the information in a home
inspection report. They should, however, help you get started on the
right foot. Remember, any items marked as priority or safety issues
on your home inspection report need immediate attention.
ONE TIME
TASKS
1. Install smoke detectors as
necessary (usually one on each level of the home, near any sleeping
areas).
2. Make any electrical improvements recommended in the
home inspection
report.
3. Remove any wood/soil contact to prevent rot and insect
damage.
4. Change the locks on all
doors.
5. Remove or correct trip hazards such as broken or
uneven walks, patios and driveways. Loose or torn carpet or
flooring should also be repaired
promptly.
6. Correct unsafe stairways and landings. (Treads
uneven, too narrow, sloped, loose; risers irregular or too high;
landings missing, poorly lit or too small; railings missing,
loose, too low, et cetera).
7. Have all chimneys inspected and
serviced before operating any of these
appliances.
8. Locate and mark the shut-offs for the heating,
electrical and plumbing
systems.
9. If there is a septic system, have the tank inspected,
and pumped if necessary. If the house is on a private water supply
(well), set up a regular testing procedure for checking water
quality.
10. If the house has a basement or crawl space, read
Section 10.0, Basement Leakage in the Interior Section of the Home
Reference Book.
X - REGULAR MAINTENANCE
ITEMS
1. Clean the gutters in the
spring and
fall.
2. Check for damaged roofing and flashing materials
twice a
year.
3. Cut back trees and shrubs from the house walls, roof
and airconditioning system as
needed.
4. Clean the tracks on horizontal sliding windows
annually, and ensure the drain holes are
clear.
5. Test ground fault circuit interrupters using the test
button,
monthly.
6. Service furnace or boiler
yearly.
7. Check furnace filters, humidifiers and electronic air
cleaners
monthly.
8. Check the bathtub and shower caulking monthly and
improve promptly as
needed.
9. If you are in a climate where freezing occurs, shut
off outdoor water faucets in the
fall.
10. Install and re-secure door stops as
needed.
11. Check attics for evidence of leaks and condensation
and make sure vents are not obstructed, at least twice a year.
(Provide access into all attics and crawl spaces.)
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Disclaimer: Dexaco Home Inspections
provides the information above to attempt to inform new home buyers
about general home maintenance. The maintenance suggestions listed
above are by no means a complete list of items that need maintenance
in a home. These statements above are only a compilation of
maintenance suggestions based on our experience in the business of
Home Inspection, General Building Contracting, Construction and
Renovations.
Dexaco Home Inspections,
Inc.
Orlando,
Florida
32839
(407)
438-3763
Contact
Us
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